I was pretty thrilled by what I have seen on the Internet of Christophe Lemaire's first collection for Hermès, particularly the first photograph of it in The Sartorialist. What I have always liked about Hermès is the French Colonial Empire aesthetic that it sometimes touches: it seems more pied-noir than Faubourg St-Honoré at times, and those are the times when it is most striking.
One piece in particular, the one I have illustrated here, Indian ink with watercolour tint, really evokes that. It makes me think of an Antoine de Saint-Exupéry character downed in an other-worldly desert, and of airmen stealing a drink of cognac in the cockpit over Algiers.
Apart from this, the show was full of stark cuts and vibrant colours accenting stable and strong neurals.

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